Lightroom Export and Exposure Data


Hello I was emailing you to discuss our first assignment. I had a little trouble with it and would like some help if possible. After taking my photo I uploaded it to Lightroom and then exported it. When I exported it I went to change the dimensions of the photo. The 72 PPI was easy to set but the 1920 pixels was a little tricky. I saved it with the length and width each set at 1920 pixels yet it said something completely different when looking at it through my saved folder. I then went and clicked on long edge and entered 1920 pixels at 72 PPI and exported it and that is what I turned in but I guess it did not save that way. How would I do it? I have to admit I totally spaced on adding in the exposure information on the photo. But where would I find the aperture, shutter speed and ISO setting for the image? Just so I know where to find it for next time. Thank you -Rachael Waters


As you have submitted your work in on time, you have the option of making corrections and resubmitting. I don’t want to punish anyone for learning. I would rather that you know how to get it right. 🙂

Sometimes it is easier to show what needs to be done than tell.  Here are a few visuals to help with how to accomplish what you want.

Saving an image in Lightroom
exporting images in Lightroom steps

Using the Library Module to find the exposure information


Using the Library Module to find the exposure information

Hope this is helpful,

How do I know which image is my original when I make a virtual copy?

If I make a virtual copy, how do I know which is the original and which one is the virtual copy?

This is a great question. Of the stack, the first one is always your original. The ones after that will say they are copies in the file name just above the filmstrip. Here is a video to help show you what I am talking about.

Video Not Showing in Canvas

Great Question:
I have tried to open the “Creating a Catalog and Importing Photos from a Folder” link but nothing is showing up and it seems like it is supposed to be a movie.

I have attached a screenshot. I am also using Chrome.
Screen Shot 2016-08-23 at 5.43.29 PM.png

Thank you for letting me know about this and the screenshot.  It was very helpful. It is also good to learn where Canvas may be giving us trouble so that we can work around it.

I did log in to see if I had any challenges, and I did not.  I was using Chrome too.  So, let’s see what we can do about getting you moving forward.  The first thing I would like you to do is to click the page-out arrow at the top of your screen.  Does this open the movie for you?
If not, please try a different browser next.

Guidance on the Chair Assignment Exposures

I’m having the worst time getting the exposure right for the chair assignment. At this point I’m just guessing when I choose the settings.

Thanks for letting me know.

First we need to determine if you are you using your camera’s meter or the Basic Exposure Formula (also known as the Sunny 16 Rule)?

If you are using your camera’s meter, then push the trigger button down half way to see the meter reading. If the lit area is on the minus side of the scale at the bottom of your viewfinder, then you need to slow down your shutter, open your aperture and/or increase your ISO until your meter has the center line/0 lit up.

If the lit area is on the plus side of the scale at the bottom of your viewfinder, then you need to quicken your shutter, close down your aperture and/or decrease your ISO until your meter has the center line/0 lit up.

If you’re using the Basic Exposure Formula (BEF), then you need to determine which lighting condition your chair is in and dial that setting into your camera. As a refresher, BEF states that when you subject is in bright sun you aperture will be set to f/16 with your shutter speed set to your ISO. Put another way: 

BEF = F/16 @ 1/ISO on a sunny day.

Note: it is best if you can get your chair into a sunny spot or bright light. Here are some exposure settings for various lighting conditions with an ISO set to 100:

Chair is out in to the daylight with direct sun       – ISO 100,      f/16,   1/125

Chair is in hazy weather                                          – ISO 100,       f/11,   1/125

Chair is in bright overcast                                        – ISO 100,       f/8,      1/125

Chair is in open shade                                              – ISO 100,       f/5.6,   1/125

If your ISO can only go down to 200, then change the shutter speed to 1/250.

Hope this helps.


Photo 109 Lecture 2 Math on Aperture Settings

Is anyone else having a hard time understanding the lecture 2 part about f/stop? I am reading it over and over and I just am not grasping the math (minimal as it is).

Thanks for the question.  Let’s see what I can do to help clear up some confusion.

Starting from ground zero on the f/stops….

Your lens has a variable diaphragm in it that controls the amount of light it lets in.  This diaphragm is called an aperture.  When you have your camera in manual mode, you will control how large or small this hole is.

The gentleman that invented this aperture needed a way to consistently set the lens’ aperture so that they would know how much light is coming in.  They would turn a barrel on the outside of the lens that would have measured cuts in it to open or close the aperture.  The clicks would tell them to stop at this point for a per-measured setting.  This is why these measured settings are called f/stops.

Now, these guys were great thinkers, but did not want to do any math that was harder than necessary.  They got together and decided that each stop would either 1/2 the amount of light as the previous stop or double the amount of light as the previous stop – depending on which way they were turning the aperture.  With me so far?  If they had their aperture closed down (very little light coming in) and then opened it one stop, the film was now receiving twice the amount of light.

If they opened it another stop, the film would receive twice the amount of light as the previous stop and four times the amount of light as the original stop.

Remember, you have to keep doubling the amount of light.  So if they opened their lens up three stops they would receive the same amount of light as 2 x 2 x 2.  This would be eight times the amount of light than the original setting.


Of course the converse is true too.  If their lens was all the way open (more light comes in) and they closed down their lens one stop, 1/2 the amount of light would come in.  Close down two stops and ¼ the amount of light would come in. Three stops and 1/8th of the amount of light would come in than the original aperture setting.


Now it might seem to make sense that the f/stops would be labeled 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, but we have to remember that these were smart men with exacting-ish standards. Instead, they decided to label each stop based on mathematics of the focal length of a lens and the diameter of the opening. Once they had their wide-open aperture value, they then took this value and multiplied it by the square root of 2 (1.41) to determine the next aperture setting. Yeah, I don’t want to go into that math either. It’s just easier to learn the f/stop scale.

1_1.4_2 _ 2.8 _ 4 _ 5.6 _ 8 _ 11 _ 16 _ 22 _ 32

You can note that if you take any of the numbers above and multiply them by 1.4 (and round as needed) you will get the next aperture number to the right. This is what the math in the lecture is trying to tell you. When you half the size of an aperture hole, you multiply it by 1.41.

Hope this helps. Let me know where more questions arise.




May I use A4 paper instead of 8.5 by 11 inch paper?



i just wanted to ask if it is okay that I print in A4, since here in Sweden that is the general size of prints and printers 🙂 is that okay or will I get a percentage off for that?


Great question.  In countries where 8.5″ x 11″ paper is not available, please do use A4.
Thanks for asking,